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We will make standard photo become a photo with the super high contrast with the stunning detail and textures . Kind of photo like this is suitable when you want to shoot building, machine, metal or vehicle which is full with textures and we want it more stunning. For retouching, we can use any photoshop version. Look at two photos bellows ( before and after) :
BEFORE 
AFTER

 Let's we start : 

1. Open photo in Photoshop

2. Duplicate layer background, press the button Ctrl + J ( mac : Cmd +J)
3. Change the layer Blending mode of duplicate become Vivid light

you will get Horrified photo like this :

4. Invert the top layer with command Ctrl +i (mac Cmd+i), you will get photo like this : 

5. Now, the next step is apply the surface blur filter. Click Filter > Blur > Surface Blur : 

6. When the dialog box  pops up, insert the number 40 in Radius and Threshold. If you shoot with Digital SLR Camera, this number is  usually fit : 
7. Wait for seconds because this filter is the one of the slowest filter in photoshop. When it's done, press the shortcut like this together  : Shift + ALT + Control + E. and you will get photo like this

8. Delete the middle layer, so you only have 2 layers. Then delete the color in the top layer with (Image > Adjusment > Desaturate) or press the shortcut Shift +Ctrl + U ( mac : Shift + Cmd + U) . You will get sharp photo like this : 

9. It's almost done , now change the blending mode from "normal" become "Overlay", and the result is the high contrast photo with the stunning detail and textures.
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What is Bulb Mode ? 

There is one special setting in almost all Digital SLR camera and Mirrorless camera, It's BULB or BULB Setting. This mode is usually marked with B notation in your digital camera. Now look carefully at your camera control, if you find symbol "B", that symbol is to turn on the Bulb mode, rotate until in B and if there's word "Bulb"  in LCD , it means you are ready to shoot Bulb. 

by : unsplash

Bulb mode is one of special settings, where we can use shutter speed above 30 seconds, moreover we can use shutter speed whatever we want. The maximum of shutter speed ranges in Digital SLR usually in number 30 seconds, but in Bulb mode you can set the shutter speed above it whatever you want. 

The word "Bulb"  was born in ancient time, the photographers in that time use bubble wind in rubber (bulb) that pressing the shutter mechanism so it's open. 



When should we use Bulb Mode? 

In Some situations, you need using Bulb mode , they are : 

  • When shooting the firework
  • When you shoot trail of light : Car lamp or star trail
  • When you shoot  in low light using small apertures such as f/11 until f/22
  • when you want to shooting Light Painting
  • When you shoot thunder light
  • When you shoot celestial objects ( astrophotography)
The point is use Bulb when you want to set long exposure above 30 seconds. 

by : unsplash

What you need in using of Bulb ?

Some items and important things in using bulb mode, they are : 

  • Tripod, except you want to get abstract photo that nobody know what the meaning of it
  • Use the Shutter Release Remote with lock mechanism
  • Timer, just use timer in your smartphone
  • Try to use ISO as low as possible
  • Battery Backup, shooting in long exposure is really spending your battery capacity, so prepare the backup.
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Photography Tips : How to Shoot Dramatic Silhouette
TAMAPHOTO.US - Silhouette is photo with the main object which is totally dark and the background is bright, so you can see the shape of the main object . Shooting silhouette  isn't so hard if you've already known the steps , they are : 

Switch off the Flash

The first and important thing that you have to do is switch off the camera flash, if you don't do it you will get standard photo (because its main object isn't dark). So switch off first!

Find the Good Lighting ( backlight)

To get awesome silhouette photograph, remember that the background must be brighter than  the main object. That's why most of people usually shooting silhouette at sunset or sunrise, where the sun (light source) is in the behind of the object that you want to shoot (Backlighting). But! photo silhouette can be made whenever, you just need to explore and train more. The point is you must find the brighter background than the main object. 


Find the impressive and unique Object

Silhouette photograph very accentuate the shape of main object, so just find the object which is have impressive , strong , and uniquely shape. Take a look the photo above, because the main object lost some detail and become darker, the shape is more stunning. We can see clearly the border of the body shape, you can try to the other objects definitely. 


Find the suitable background


To get amazing silhouette you must find the bright background. Also Try to find  interesting background  but isn't so crowed in order to show up the main object. Sky and beach is the most favorite. 


Measure the Exposure ( manual/auto) 

As can as you can do, use the manual exposure. Set metering in spot metering. Measuring in the brightest background. In photo above, i measure the sky light over head. Change the aperture and shutter speed as you want ( big aperture for blurry background and small aperture for sharp background). After you've determined the aperture and shutter speed, direct the camera to the main object. Set the focus point on the main object,then press the shutter button. 

If you don't use manual mode, you can still use auto mode. Direct camera to the most bright area, in the photo above is direct at the sky which is above the tourist. Half-press the shutter button  ( don't full pressing) hold the shutter, direct camera to the main object, then full press the shutter button. 


Don't be Afraid to Try 

Try the different combination of aperture and shutter speed if you've failed in the first chance. Try to do experiment with the object around you, don't stuck only on sunset and sunrise, because the silhouette photo can be made everywhere. 



Best Of Lucks! 

Read Also : Magical Sunset and Sunrise Photographs Tips
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After the article that i made before about Moire Pattern in Photography context, now i will explain more about hoe to avoid moire pattern in photo. If you are already have photo with moire, it's pretty hard to remove it even use shophisticated software, so the best trick is to avoid moire appears in photo. Let's follow some steps bellow to avoid moire pattern:

1. Check the photo directly after you've shot the tight pattern

Make sure when you've shot an object with the tight and complex recur pattern, check the photo result directly. Zooming in the photo in camera LCD until 100% and scroll it to check that there's moire or not. If you see the moire in photo, choose the some steps bellow before you shoot that object again.

2. Change the focal length

When you've seen moire, the best things to avoid it is change the censor length to the photo object. We can really move ( walk away or closer) or we can zoom in or zoom out the focal length. Remember that moire appears when the object pattern have detail exceed from censor resolution capability, so we can decrease the detail of pattern level.

3. Change the focus to the another direction

Although this step isn't as good as second step above, but you can try this step. Move the focus point to the other area in photo object.

4. Try Some Different Angle 

Sometimes we just need to change the shoot angle, moire can lost totally. If you standing, try to squat, or if in the beginning you shoot on the left , try to shoot on the right. 
5. Decrease the aperture number, use f/11 until f/16

When you are decreasing the lens aperture number, there will be diffraction of the light direction that comes to the lens. Diffraction is effective to decrease the resolution ( detail level) so it can remove the moire. 

If after you've tried the steps above but you still find the moire in your photo, the last step that you can do is remove it using Lightroom software. 

Best Of Lucks! 
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What is Moire Pattern ? 

TAMAPHOTO.US - In photography context, moire pattern happen when the object in photo have recur detail pattern ( line, point) that exceed from censor resolution capability of digital camera. That's why the photo result shows extra pattern that seen weird and its not real. To get more easy, just take a look on this picture bellow :




Look at the weird pattern that appear on photo above, yes! it's called moire pattern.

In real life, moire almost never seen because quality of our eyes is the best. but for camera and lens that full of deficiency, moire appears oftentimes. It shows in hair, clothes, escalator and almost in all objects that have recur detail pattern which is tight and complex. 

In digital camera, moire happen because the way of light reach out the censor and how the censor interpreting that light. There are some effective tips to remove this moire that appear in your picture. The next article, i will explain about shooting tips to remove the moire. but if you are already have the photo with moire, you can use Lightroom to remove the moire, even you can't decrease it all. 

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6 Benefits of Shooting in RAW Format 
In the article about RAW vs JPEG  , basically we've known and understand  what the benefits/disadvantages of that formats. In this article i will explain more specific and detail about what exactly the benefits if we shoot in RAW format. 

There are 6 main benefits if you shoot with RAW format, they are : 

1. Editable White Balance 

When you are shooting in RAW format, camera will never touch white balance setting of a photo. A photo will directly sent by censor to memory card and the camera system never change or set anything.
White balance will be sent when we export our file using RAW converter such as Lightroom. It means that we can change white balance setting become anything what we want after you've done for shoot. 
It's very useful for us when we shoot in situation when the  light temperature which is complex and unstable (read more about white balance), so we can easily do the correction while we editing in computer. Once more, when we use RAW format, change of white balance will not affect the posterize artifact such as if we change the white balance in JPEG like this picture bellow  : 

2. Highlight Recovery

When we adding the over exposure on a highlight, they will lost the detail and become totally white. When we using RAW format, sometimes it can recover the lost detail. Sounds like impossible but the explanation is pretty simple. A pixel is arranged by element/ Red , Green, Blue Channel (RGB). Sometimes when we lost the detail, it's not mean both of three RGB elements are lost, who knows if there is Blue or Green Channel still there and the detail can be recovered. 

It doesn't mean that we can shoot whatever we want, but this feature can be used as safety nets of shooting.

3. Much more fexlible in Editing

Shooting in RAW format is like the little kid who is painting with crayon box that have 64 colors, but if we shoot in JPEG its like painting with crayon box that only have 16 colors. See, more many crayon ! So we can more flexible to choose the colors combination, choosing gradient which is more smooth and etc. 

You will feel the benefits when you start to editing photo in Lightroom or Photoshop, photo in RAW format is rich of detail, smooth gradient, shadow and etc. 

4. Non Destructive

RAW format is always saved as pure file and untouched and it doesn't change. So we can  save it and we can always edit  it as we want and until whenever. With Lightroom software, when we are editing a photo with RAW format, so the any editing process ( Conversion to black and white, crop, exposure correction, and etc) will be saved as information which is separated with the original photo, so our photo will always seen pure. 

5. Batch Processing

When we  are working with RAW file in computer, we can apply a editing rule on some file at once. For example, when we back from photo hunting and find that all  white balance in photos are wrong! and the exposure was under 1/3 stop, so we can so the correct the white balance and exposure in a row on all photos. Something like this is kind of difficult to do in JPG file. 

6. Digital Negative

Because RAW file is always pure, we can save it and process it suitable with the future trend. Who knows if someday the photo editing software more shopisticated better than nowadays and our photo still pure and we can edit it again. Still remember film for camera? we always have the negative from a photo i oerder to be printed again and again, that's why RAW file can be assumed as Digital Negative from a photo. 
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How to Use Manual Focus and When Should We Using It ?

Why we have to know about how to use manual focus (M or MF)? Even there is new autofocus technology? Actually we never know when we will need manual focus, sometimes we have situation when the autofocus failed in focusing , the focus points in a mess everywhere. And do you know that some expensive lens like Leica or Carl Zeiss don't have autofocus feature? 

When we need Manual Focus? 

Most of Macro photographers using manual focus because its quite hard to lock the focus when the subject only 20 cm in the front of lens. Likewise when we shoot in tricky condition, like when we shooting subject in the behind of glass, or when we shoot moving subject that really fast and we just can predict the focus point to the direction where the subject will be come.

How to Use Manual Focus? 

First Step :  Switch to M

Firstly, set the focus position in lens, you can see the marking "M/A" or "AF/MF" in lens, switch on M position.


Second Step : Rotate The Focusing Ring 
To determine where is the focus what you want, we just rotate the focusing ring. In lens usually there are 2 rings that you can rotate, if one of them is to zoom , so the other is to focusing ring, rotate it while your eyes on peek in viewfinder. Sometimes we have to rotate to the right and left while determine the area that you want to focusing really sharp.



Third Step :  Use The Distance Scale 

Lens is featured by distance scale in its body to help us in manual focus, when we shoot in low light condition, distance scale is very useful for us to predict where is the focusing ring must be rotated, to the right or left.


Fourth Step : Use LCD screen to check the sharpness

To check how sharp the photo result, check the photo result in LCD screen and zooming in and direct to area that we want to be sharp. Usually when we shoot the face, we must to check the sharpness in eyes area. Zooming in eyes area and repeat again if your shoot isn't sharp yet.

Manual focus directly proportional with your experiences, more you practise more fast you can do it and the result is more accurate. Veteran photographers usually can lock the focus in less than one second.

Best Of Lucks!
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Understanding 5 Light Directions 

In Photography, knowing where's the light direction fall to subject will very influence how the picture looks like. Light direction determine its character and also show the impression and dimension that show up on subject, so it build our photo overall. Natural light direction (Sunlight) or from artificial light (flash) are divided by 5 , they are : Front Light, Back Light, Top Light/ Down Light, and Side Light. Let we learn one by one : 

Front Light 


Front light is the light source in front of the subject in photo, usually the light source is in the back of our camera. The front light may come straight to the subject, kind of when we face the sunrise at the beach. Front light can also make an angle, kind of when we face the sun at 10 am. If we using flash, we can make front light right in the front of face or make an angle toward face. Most of photos are made from front light. 

Side Light 


The light touch the subject from the right or left side. The side light give  such a strong  dimensional  impression, so this light source usually used for architecture or landscape photos. The light side also will strenghten the texture of a subject , you can see the desert surface above. If you want to take a headshot, acne will be more visible if we use side light. Side light is really good in black and white photo. 

Back Light 

Back light happen we we shoot subject in light source that come from back, in other words the light source in the front of camera bun in the back of the subject. When we shoo a subject that distance from the sun, for example shooting your friend that face to the west at 4 pm , so you will get the back light photo. In this situation usually you can get silhouette like this picture bellow : 



Most of photo back lights will show more of shape and profile from the subject. 

Top Light and Down Light

Top light or down light are rarely to use because it makes photo which is not so good, for example top light photo is when we shoot at 12 pm. Headshoot photo that make in the daylight or 12 pm will make produce eye bags shadow that make your friend seen ugly. 


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In this article, we will try to understanding about what is pixel, megapixels and resolution of digital photo with simply explanation. 

Pixel dan Megapixels

A digital photo composed by millions little points called pixel. Pixel itself is the word from abbreviation of Picture Elements. Each pixel bring information that determining the color (hue), Color  strength (saturation) and how bright that color ( brightness).
Because almost photo composed by millions pixel (1 megapixels = 1 million pixels), it makes our eyes can't recognize a pixel separately, you just can see the photo with smooth gradation between bright-dark, friction of color and tone. 
If you want to see a pixel, you can resize your photo. Like photo bellow,  this photo have resolution size 600 x 450 pixels.In small size like this you still can't see a pixel, all you see just  smooth color.

  
But if we change the resolution become 100 x 75 pixel, we starting to see how the pixels arrange this photo.  
   
Moreover with low resolution 40 x 30 pixel, each pixel box will seen like puzzle. We can see the pixel- this condition called pixelate:


Photo Resolution for Monitor Screen and Print
Resolution of digital photo measured in pixel per inch (ppi), and standard resolution for photo quality is 300 ppi. So if we know the number of megapixels in a digital camera, we also can know the optimum print size that can be produced by that camera. 
For example, we suggest that a digital camera have resolution 6 Megapixels (MP) with the precise size is 2816 pixels (length) x 2112 pixel (wide)- so the total is 6 MP.  To counting the optimum print size that can be produced by camera, we divide 2816 x 2112 pixels by 300 pp1 and the result is 9,5 and 7 inches. So a digital camera with resolution 6MP can produce photo print with the size 9,5 x 7 inches or 24 x 18 cm.
For monitor screen, the standard is 72 ppi (Windows) and 96 ppi (Mac), so the display in monitor screen actually is still far away from standard resolution  for print (300 ppi). It means a photo still look good in monitor doesn't mean look good we we print it, but a photo that start to look "pixelate" when printed in 300 ppi , it can be smooth in monitor of computer. 

Table of Megapixels vs Print Size of a Photo

In the table bellow is the sample table about how optimum your camera skill to produce a photo which is print in 300 ppi or 200 ppi. Generally, most of digital camera nowadays  ( that start to approaching 24 megapixels as the standard resolution) have printing skill more than good that user need. Except if we want to make poster with big size in 200 ppi, our camera is very rare to be used suitable with the camera skill to get print photo, moreover usually we just see the photo on monitor screen. The Megapixel camera isn't the most important thing if you want to buy a camera.
CameraPrint Size (300 ppi)Print Size (200 ppi)
          6 Megapixels      24 x 18 cm (9,5 x 7 in)      36 x 27cm (14 x 10,5 in)
          7 Megapixels     25 x 19 cm (10 x 7,5 in)      39 x 29cm (15,5 x 11,5 in)
         8 Megapixels     28 x 20 cm (11 x 8 in)      42 x 30 cm (16,5 x 12 in)
        10 Megapixels     33 x 20 cm (13 x 8,5 in)      49 x 33 cm (19,5 13 in)
        12 Megapixels     37 x 24 cm (14,5 9,5 in)       55 x 36 cm ( 21,5 x 14 in)
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CPL Filter or Polarizer or we can say polarization is one of the filter that most useful accesories for landscape photographer. Main function of CPL filter is to strengthen color contrast (vividness) in Landscape photo. 




To know how it work, look at 2 photo bellow : first photo is taken with CPL which is cling on lens and seen darker sky, clouds seen contrast, the building roof also more white and clear. Meanwhile the second photo without CPL, the sky seen more bright, the contrast on cloud is not really visible, so it's seen not so dramatic if we comparing with the first photo also the building roof see more dark. 

With CPL

Without CPL


In Landscape photograph that usually contain the sky as the part of photo element, CPL filter make the sky more blue so we get more dramatic impression. Beside it, CPL filter also decrease the reflection of shining surface such as water and glass, darken the sky and make the cloud seen more contrast, so in generally become more vivid. 

If you have lens that featured with whorl in front ( almost Digital SLR have it) , you can just put CPL filter on the whorl. After it, the way to use is just rotate the CPL  clockwise or anticlockwise  until you get the effect that what you want, which is light polarization. Polarization work with blocking the light that comes from current direction, so the light doesn't come to lens. 

When using CPL filter, the thing that you must remember is maximum polarization effect reached when in backlight. The other thing you must remember is when use use CPL filter on super big lens  ( under 16mm), we must careful because sometimes the sky is darker but the dark isn't equal. 

Beside darken the sky, like i've explained above , this filter also effective to decrease the shining stuff reflection. look at the differences on the photo bellow, the photo on left without CPL filter , it seen the reflection of glass reflection and car body. Meanwhile photo on the right using CPL filter , it seen the reflection is gone so the colors seen more deep :  



.
The price CPL filter in the market  is from $ 22 until $ 225. Buy the best quality CPL filter based on your budget and make sure the size is suitable with the lens diameter that you want put in. 

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Firstly, do you know what bokeh is it? Bokeh is the blur quality that make main object separated from its background. Eyes are enjoy when see the blurry background but soft, creamy, and beautiful. Maybe there are people still have problem why their bokeh isn't good yet? what's wrong?
There are six main factors that really influence quality of  our bokeh photo, following this steps then i guarantee you will get awesome bokeh photo .


1. Use Big Aperture

Bokeh was born from lens, not from camera. That's why the most important thing that you have to do is aperture lens setting on big aperture ( biggest which is permitted in photoshoot condition- maximum aperture). You can do with using Aperture Priority Mode and change the f  number in lowest value( rotate aperture ring counter-clockwise). Read more about depth of field. 
In this setting, practically we lower depth of field become shallow.

2. Decrease the length between camera and main object

More close we standing from the main object, more blur the background. More close the main object, lens focus is also closer and depth of field will more narrow. Let's try to do this : hold up your index finger near the glass away approximately 50 cm in front of you, focus your eyes on the index finger, now move your index finger closer to your eyes, More close your index finger with the eyes, the glass behind will more blur, isn't it?

3. Keep the distance between object and the background

When you take a picture of  your friend and you want to get awesome bokeh photo, more far your friend from the background, more good bokeh that you will get. Look at this photo bellow, the leaf that closer to camera looks so sharp, but the leaf that getting further from camera is more blur. Mean while the green leaf behind looks very blur. 

4. Use the longest focal length.


When you sung zoom lens, use the longest focal length to make more separate the main object with the backgorund. For example : when you use the 70-200mm lens, set the focal length in 200mm to get awesome bokeh. read more about focal length. 
If you bring lens of  300mm, 18-200mm, 14-24mm,choose the longest lens (300mm) if you want to get super awesome bokeh photo. 

5. Choose the lens with the best quality optic that you can buy. 

Bokeh quality also affected by optic quality of lens that we use. We can say if you have two lens with same maximum focal length, for example : Lens 18-200mm f/5.6 and Lens 70-200mm/f2.8, because the quality optic of lens 70-200mm usually more good better than lens 18-200mm ( so the Price is much much more expensive). So use the lens 70-200mm, and as can as possible set the aperture in f/2.8. Read more about  5 Consideration before You Buy Camera Lens

6. Use prime Lens

Because like i said on number 1 above that more big aperture more good  the bokeh, if you gave prime lens, use it. Prime lens pr fixed lens is lens with the single focal length or we can zooming definitely, Prime lens type that usually produce bokeh photo such as : 50mm f1.4 , 85mm f1.4 or the cheaper variants 5omm f/1.8 and 85mm f/1.8. Read more about prime lens .
Okay, they are 6 tips to get AWESOME bokeh photo, Best of luck!
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Definitely you will never get any reward from photo that takes  inside airplane through airplane window, but it will be nice if we get memories from this unique photo for yourself or for share in social media. The most important thing is we can beat the boring and nervous feeling while fly inside big iron bird. 



There are some tips that may can help you to get better photo if you want to take picture through airplane window, they are : 

1. Choose the Suitable seat!

If you want to shoot from airplane window , definitely you have to sit close to window, and try to choose the seat that little bit far from airplane wing, so there are no things that block the view. But if you didn't get it, don't worry just let the wing include in the frame. 



2. Make End of Lens and Airplane Window 'parallel and closer', but don't cling!

When you shoot fish in the aquarium , we should cling the lens on glass, when we shoot from airplane window, this way isn't applicable. Remember that airplane have vibration or tremor  and it will make blurry photo. Set the end of lens as parallel as possible with  window, as closer as  possible with glass surface, but don't let it cling to glass. 

3. Decrease the Window glass reflection. 

Shooting through window plane make us must to try to lessen the refection from the glass in order to more contrast and sharp. To minimize the reflection, try use hood lens and make it close with window glass. If you don't  have it, use one of your hand to covering around the end of lens. 

4. Don't use CPL filter

Putting off the CPL filter from lens when you wan to shoot from airplane window, or you will get photo with fake rainbow if you still using CPL filter



5. Use Manual Focus 

It's Hard to lock the focus using autofocus when you have to pass 2 window layer, you should use manual focus or set the focus point to infinity. 

6. Turn off the Flash 

Despite to make the glass reflection more worse, using flash can shocking the other passengers. But the true explanation is not worthy or useless using your tiny flash  brighten the sky, mountain or anything because it's all far away dozens meters until kilos meters.

7. To shooting down, wait until the plane dip or sloping. 

 

Airplane will sloping when landing or shortly before take off, so get ready in this position. Need to remember that when the plane reach maximum high, usually the airplane window become hazy or moreover the ice cling to window, so shooting as much as you can in the beginning when airplane fly. 

8. Recommendation of Exposure Setting

Even jet plane have softer vibration and some lens are featured with IS/VR , but its more good if use fast shutter speed, following the rule of focal length , use speed above 1/250 and more fast when you shooting down. For the aperture, set in the number f/8, High ISO ( but don't too high), remember we will not take the perfect resolution from inside of airplane window. 

Best of Lucks! 
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